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Capet is one of my favourite restaurants in Barcelona. I fell in love with it on my first visit, while I was enjoying a twice-cooked hare accompanied by yellow chanterelles (camagrocs). Since then, this love has been reinforced with each visit, bite by bite. They have an open kitchen, and in fact I highly recommend the option of eating at the bar, looking directly at the hypnotic dance of the chefs in full action. With Armando Álvarez at the helm, they offer a collection of dishes that are jewels for the palate, preciousness of technique and flavour. Capet is a superior gastronomic experience.
I am amazed by the boneless rabbit with marinade and pickled vegetables, where the bones of the rabbit are used to make a snow-white marinated sauce and the meats are served in delicate sliced galantines. “This is a dish that we are very satisfied with,” Armando tells us, “rabbit is also a meat that has been widely used in Catalonia and we like to promote it.”
He goes on to say a sentence that defines the restaurant very well: “We don’t like to fill the menu just for the sake of it, we have to really like all the dishes that appear on it. For example, we love veal sweetbread and we mark it so that we can combine it with a tendon stew and a pickled mussel with green asparagus on the plate.” Armando is also in love with his dishes and it really shows when he speaks.
Keep an eye out for October 1st, when they launch their menu for the hunting season – it is one of the best options in Barcelona for wild-caught fur and feathers. “This year we will have partridge, wild rabbit, deer, wild boar, mallard and hare that we will serve in a fresh pasta tortello and with the raw loins in carpaccio.” They are some brown beasts in the fun game of combining cuts, cooking and temperatures of each animal in the same dish. I'm late, October is coming!
The desserts are in keeping with the general line of the menu: complexity, fermented ingredients and lots of technique. Cauliflower, coffee and white chocolate for the daring. For lovers of sweet citrus: Capet lemon pie. // Capet . c/del Cometa, 5, 08002 Barcelona. Tel.: 937 204 421. Average price: 70 euros. Tasting menus: 75 and 90 euros.